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Zabar's takes on Pinkberry with their "Zaberry". See the side-by-side nutrition comparison

Archive for February, 2010

Gift-card heaven: Picholine

Posted by JK on February 26th, 2010

Recently, I received a gift-card that I could use either at Artisanal or Picholine.  That’s a tough choice.   Artisanal is really fun and a night of stinky cheeses on the house sounded really good.  On the other hand, I had heard Picholine is a stuffy, old-school, Michelin 2-star restaurant and I aspire to be stuffy and old school.  Plus, how often do I get the chance to visit these types of establishments?  In the end, the deciding factor was that as good as Artisanal is, unless you love cheesecake, their desserts are decidedly “just ok”.  I wanted to taste a Michelin rated dessert.

Before we talk desserts I just have to mention how superb the service and our savory dishes were.   Definitely worthy of both the hype and the 2-stars.

Our pre-dessert was apple cider with crumble.  We were told to pour the contents of the cone (the crumble) into our mouths and then wash it down with the apple cider.  We did as directed.  The crumble was like  the powder from a fancy pixie stick, flavored with real apples instead of the artificial kind like in Apple Jacks.  The Cider had all kinds of spices and did its job of telling the brain to shift gears into “sweet” mode.

Next up was the main feature, the liquid chocolate tart.  The dessert consisted of a small open bowl made with a cookie-like hardness.  Inside was a somewhat runny, liquid dark chocolate ganache.  A super-thin disc of dark chocolate covered the bowl and sealed in the ganache.  On top of the disc was a scoop of chocolate mousse, a drop of confiture de lait sorbet (like dulche de leche) and a pearl of meringue.

Every component of this dessert was perfect individually, especially the mousse and meringue.  However, the one thing I didn’t like was that when you cracked the side of the tart all the ganache ran out all over the place making it hard to eat the rest of the components together.  That said, the ganche wasn’t some cheap, bland syrup.  It was rich,  dark and  flavorful.  If  I ordered this again I would only crack the top of the disc and not the side of the tart.

Everyone knows the best thing about these high-end places is how many “extra” desserts you get.  At Picholine you get a plate of petit fours and a dish of chocolates. The macarons were decent but the chocolates were excellent.  Much better than I expected with rich flavors  like the ganache we had earlier.   Our neighbors didn’t touch their chocolates or their macarons and let me tell you I was this close to swiping them off their plates.  Seriously, who comes to a place like Picholine and leaves petit fours on the table?  If you’re too full, just stick them in your pocket!  Some people.  Special shout-out to team Oswald for make this happen- Thanks!

Picholine is located at 35 West 64th Street.  Their dessert menu is here.

French Toast for Dessert: Dovetail’s Pain Perdu

Posted by Niko on February 24th, 2010

[This post was originally published in June 2009]

After success in a certain bike race, the DessertBuzz editorial team decided to head to one of their absolute favorite restaurants for dessert: Dovetail, on the upper west side.  One of the best things about Dovetail is that they constantly change their dessert menu.  Dovetail’s pastry chef, Vera Tong, seems to like to mix classic options with a few experimental desserts.  I still regret not trying the grape soup that I saw last winter, but I did eat the peanut butter pretzel with sea salt and beer ice cream.  Edgy, but not as hectic as Wd-50. . .

On Sunday’s Mother’s Day menu there were a couple intriguing choices but I had it narrowed down to either the pain perdu or the chocolate hazelnut fondant.  Normally, I always go with the chocolate option – that’s DessertBuzz Law #1: when in doubt, go with the dessert that contains dark chocolate. However, in this case,  I knew I still had 5 artisanal dark chocolate bars waiting at home that were going to be eaten this week so I went with the pain perdu.  Truth be told, I had to ask what pain perdu was.  But now, after reading all about it on the internets, I am of course an expert.  Pain perdu means “lost bread” and it was a way for people to reclaim stale bread by soaking it in eggs and milk and then frying it.  Which takes us to DessertBuzz law #2: when you can’t apply rule #1 go with the fried dessert option.  Of course DessertBuzz law #3 is:  If you ever see a dessert that is both fried and contains dark chocolate you must order 2 servings and take one home to photograph it for a feature on Dessertbuzz.

Anywho- the pain perdu was like a light, evenly fried, French toast saturated with a flavorful egg and milk mixture.  It looks like it was finished off with a blow torch too (but that is just speculation on my part).  The pool of caramel below the bread was even tastier than if it was made with real maple syrup.  The berries were 5-star as was the vanilla bean ice cream.  The picture really says it all. The also gave us 2 mini-red velvet cupcakes and 2 small tea cakes to take home. Damn I love this place.  I plan to talk some teammates into going back this week for more.

Ok, so you have been invited to a dinner party and the classy thing to do would be to bring something.  A bottle of wine would usually be your “go to” gift in this situation. But let’s face it, as nice as wine is, it’s not usually very memorable.  And if it’s not as good the host’s wine it might just get put away and forgotten (you probably know where I am going with this).

Now if you bring a dessert, especially something cool looking or unusual, not only will it (and you) be remembered, but if you do it right, you are sure to be invited back again and again.  The only downside is that you will face ever-increasing dessert expectations that you will have to keep topping,  which could get expensive real fast.

Which brings me to today’s recommendation: The humble, Fairway 8” Chocolate Tart.  For $6.99.  Although nobody will ever confuse this tart with one from Bouchon it is a very solid dessert.  If you factor in the price, it’s one of the best dessert values in town.  It has a nice chocolate flavor and an excellent,  fresh crust.  A bit on the sweet side for me personally but most of the guests at a big party I brought one to  really had nice things to say about it.

Recommended: Fairway 8” chocolate tart $6.99

Dovetail brunch: 5 desserts. And some other stuff

Posted by JK on February 21st, 2010

Dovetail desserts

One of the best ways to experience a 3-star New York Times restaurant at a fraction of the cost, is to go for lunch or in this case for brunch. The Dovetail brunch is very dessert heavy. It includes a basket of fresh baked bread items; canapes, which include a yogurt parfait and a duck meatball amuse; a main course and a mini-dessert sampler. I should note some of the unique and heavy-duty savory brunch items such as short rib lasagna (!) and sirloin eggs.

It’s interesting that Dovetail has such a dessert-heavy brunch.   I have long been aware how how great their desserts are but I didn’t know their customer base felt the same as me until I saw the 4-dessert sampler and additional bread pudding pre-dessert. By the way, who ever heard of a pre-dessert for 3 course brunch?

My guest and I both thought the bread pudding, which came as the “pre-dessert”  was the best offering.   It was more like like a perfect, syrup-soaked piece of french toast.   I also really liked the devil’s food cake which packed a strong chocolate flavor but was not too heavy.  The apple crisp, which has been part of this brunch for a while is also very good.  The apple crisp is excellent, it’s very fresh and not too sweet.  The cheesecake, like the devil’s food, is a one-bite dessert that has a lot of house-made  components, such as the flaky cookie base and a blob of jelly.   The final dessert-bite was a brownie with whipped cream.

Recommended: Bread Pudding, also sometimes available as a “pain purdu”.

Dovetail is located at 103 West 77th Street.

City bakery is holding their hot chocolate festival right now and you can go here to see what flavors they’ll be featuring in the coming days. But surprisingly, that’s not why I think you should head down there. It’s not a bad reason but the best thing to get at City bakery right now is their Maple bacon biscuit. Though it has some big pieces of bacon in it, it’s not overburdened with it. The real reason why it rocks is the texture. It is very crispy on the outside and bottom and flaky like a scone on the inside. I went at 9:00 a.m. and it was perfect. Really. Definitely one of the better biscuit or scone experiences I have had in a while.

Recommended: City Bakery Maple Bacon Biscuit $3.00

Tips: Buy it before noon for best results