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Archive for March, 2010

This post was originally from January 6, 2010 but after seeing this great post about Paris bakeries and sweets by Jessie Olsen of Cakespy via SeriousEats I had to repost this along with a link to her great Paris sweets post.

If you love pastry, especially extra-fancy pastry that resemble fine art then you should check out the mouth-watering new coffee table book, Paris Patisserie.  The book is equal parts history lesson, cookbook and Paris guidebook.

One of the best coffee table books about Paris Pastry

The book offers a brief history of pastries in Paris from simple baked items such as croissants to highly evolved, multi-step creations such as Operas.  The book also offers recipes and descriptions of the signature creations from 20 of the best pastry chefs in Paris.  And finally, the most fantasy-provoking part of the book: a guide to the best Paris patisseries with descriptions and locations.  A lover of sweets could easily plan a trip around this part of the book.

Worth a trip accross the pond

The book is worth it for the beautiful photographs alone.  Check it out at Rizzoli and see for yourself.

If you dig this book don’t forget to check out this post from last year about how Paris pastry influenced Paris architecture

Decide for yourself and check it out here or click on the link text below.

A family friend who’s an accomplished chef  invited me to one of her favorite places to eat last week–508 Restaurant and Bar.  She promised that in addition to excellent  savory courses, their desserts were to be taken  seriously.  I took them very seriously.

What differentiates really good made-to-order churros,  beignets or bombolini?   Since they’re  fried they’re  going to be pretty tasty.   To me, the answer lies  in the how crisp you can get the outside while making the inside almost batter-like.    The churros from 508 were just that: ultra crispy outside, piping hot and soft inside.  They were served with Valhrona dark chocolate dipping sauce.

The molten chocolate cake was plated along with a chocolate-relief design from the chef, making it  special and memorable.  This cake was different from the standard molten cakes you see all over the place:  1) It was served with sea salt, making a sweet-salty dessert instead of just sweet.  2)  It incorporated 5 fresh blueberries and 3) It didn’t arrive to the table all shiny from massive amounts of butter.   I also liked the way they used a nice dark Valhrona chocolate.  It was served with really smooth vanilla bean ice cream (or was it gelato?).

We also received a tray of 4 different Capogiro gelatos.  If you don’t know about Capogiro, it’s considered by many to be the best in the US.  What I love about them is their  ”anything goes” flavor choices, like Mascarpone and fig gelato anyone?  These guys even have fan sites that covers their new flavors.  The gelatos we tried are below, but really, you can’t go wrong.

The flavors in our 4 bowls were: Goat’s milk rosemary honey, Mexican chocolate, Pistachio and Zucca (pumpkin).  The crowd favorite at our table was the pistachio which had the smoothness that Capogiro gelato is known for.  I liked the Mexican chocolate which had a lot of chile kick, but it was too much for my dining companions.  The goat’s milk rosemary honey had a light, icy texture like a sorbet but the chef told us that it was in fact a gelato.

One note on the savory side: Let’s face it, it’s hard to create a pasta dish in this city that really stands out.   But sometimes there is that rare dish that makes you say to yourself “damn, I forgot how good house-made pasta is!”  Well, that’s what I say to myself at least.    Then I get really bummed when the last fork full is spooled up.

In the last 2 years I have had 2 dishes that have supplanted my  dessert daydreams and replaced them with thoughts about piles of fresh pasta.    One was Michael White’s much-hyped fussilli with bone marrow and octopus from Marea that Serious Eats, Dessert Buzz and Frank Bruni (in that order mind you) raved about.  The second was the Roasted Duck with egg fettuccine, brussels sprouts, pancetta, and pine nuts from 508.  To me, this dish had it all, large pieces of super-flavorful roasted duck,  browned brussels sprouts and absolutely delicious pasta.    I can’t think of a better pasta dish in New York City that even comes close for $18.   Celeste has some great house made pasta and sauce but those dishes are not nearly this complex.

Recommended: Churros with Valhrona dark chocolate dipping sauce, the freakiest Capo Giro gelatos available the night you are there.

Special savory Recommendation: Roasted duck with pine nuts, spinach, brussels sprouts, pancetta and olive oil tossed in spinach and egg fettuccini.

508 Restaurant and Bar is located at 508 Greenwich Street at Spring.  Their web site is here.

 

 

Cupcake Stop

This Saturday the Cupcake Stop Truck will be in front of the new Victoria’s Secret Pink  store in SOHO giving out pink cupcakes.  Not sure how many but free cupcakes is free cupcakes is free cupcakes right?  The store is at 565 Broadway in Soho and the event will last from 9:00a.m. -2:30p.m.

BOTTLEROCKET WINE & SPIRIT
5 W. 19TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10011
T: 212-929-2323 F: 212-929-3111

Custom” Chocolate Wine & Spirit Tasting at Bottle Rocket Wine and Spirit
Saturday, March 13 from 3-6 PM
Free. No Reservations Required

Bottlerocket is pairing up with chocri, a German chocolate maker launching in the U.S. to bring you an adventurous treat. From their website, chocri lets you choose a base chocolate, then add from over 100 toppings. The bars are handmade in Germany and are shipped to your home.

Bottlerockers tried their hand and created five custom chocolate bars for you and will pair them with perfect wines and spirits. Come try a mint, basil and pistachio dark chocolate bar paired with an herbaceous cabernet sauvignon. Or try our daring bacon and pretzel creation with a sip of bourbon! Fun for all, and free for all!

Cupcake Stop Elvis cupcake - I think they will be serving pink ones tomorrow though


Payard’s new places: More info and an address

Posted by Niko on March 10th, 2010

Expanding on the  news that DessertBuzz broke back  in February, The New York Times’ Florence Fabricant reports on her blog that Francois Payard will be opening a bakery-cafe at 116 West Houston Street where he’ll serve sandwiches and “rustic stuff.”   He will also be opening a second cafe on the Upper East side  with A Voce owner Marlon Abela.  I’ll update this story as soon as I get some more details.

Leave no scone unturned: 11 great NYC Scones

Posted by JK on March 8th, 2010

Like muffins, New York City scones are a great excuse to eat cake for breakfast.  Or, depending on where you get them, to eat cookies in the morning.  Or, basically, to have dessert any damn time of day you want.  We have an especially wide array of different types here in the city as New York is truly the Madagascar of scones.  Anywho, here is my list of 12 recommended scones.


I’ll start with my favorite scone, the raisin scone from Payard. [Payard is closed, try Francois Chocolate Bar for pastry- no scones or bread to date 3-1-2010] A very thin crisp shell with a sweet soft Challah-like inside.  The aroma of the center of this scone is one of the great food pleasures for $1.50.  Notes: Go early or they won’t have any left.  More on Payard.

The Maple scones from Blue Ribbon Bakery are almost like shortbread cookies. They are very small, sweet and flavorful with a thin layer of frosting.  Perfect if you are not in the mood for a full-on bread bomb.  More desserts from Blue Ribbon.

The goat cheese and herb savory scone from Clinton Street Baking Company has a thick, crunchy, textured crust and a very salty and flavorful inside.  This is a big scone that is fun to eat in the same way ripping off pieces of French bread is.  More Clinton Street Desserts.

Perhaps I should not have included the tiny savory biscuit-like scone from Dovetail since it’s only available with their delicious brunch.  However, it left an impression on me so I felt it deserved a spot.  Chewy on the edges like a buttery chocolate chip cookie but 100% savory almost like a cornmeal grain, butter rich biscuit that’s been cooked on a griddle.  More from DessertBuzz 5-star Dovetail.

The savory bacon cheddar scone from Bouchon is a highly textured and flavorful creation worthy of the Bouchon name.  More like a small specialty bread, this scone is not at all crumbly or buttery.  Notes:  You must go early to get these as they can be dry if you get them in the afternoon.  Check with the staff if you go after 12:00 to see when it was baked.  Also for god sakes, get a pastry here if you go.

The  chocolate strawberry scone from Alice’s Tea Cup packs tons of delicious dark chocolate and fresh strawberries.  Their crust is thick and the inside reminds me of buttermilk pancakes with starwberries and chocolate.  They are the biggest scones and most filling in this feature.  Perfect for fueling up for a long walk around Central Park.  Notes: ask for a hot one. It simply DESTROYS!   More from Alice’s Tea Cup.

The chocolate scone from E.A.T. definitely has some croissant in its bloodlines.  Very buttery, light  and flaky (um, like the inside of a good croissant?).  This is the opposite of the dense Clinton St. or Alice’s Tea Cup scones.  Notes: The dark chocolate in this scone is simply outstanding.  More from E.A.T.

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The organic cranberry scone from Le Pain Quotidien is like a muffin but with an interesting glazed soft exterior that makes it stand out.  The tart cranberries and low sugar content also keep this from becoming too sweet. Notes: if you like your scones to be very distinctive from muffins you might not like this scone. More dessert from Le Pain Quotidien.

Forget the name of the scone I am going to describe here and just go buy one and enjoy it.  The vegan (yes vegan) chocolate chip scone from Whole Foods is really just a big thick less dense chocolate chip cookie that you can eat for breakfast.  It has coconut inside and some other great textures to go along with excellent dark chocolate chips and a crunchy crust, all for $1.79.  Notes: I said forget it’s vegan!  More Whole Foods here.

The currant scone from Bouley Bakery is a work of baking and culinary art. The cookie-like exterior is not buttery but is perfectly browned.  The inside is crumbly and not too sweet.  Like a less-sweet, less buttery slightly more dense shortbread cookie.  Notes: Try some other items while you are down there – almost everything is superb.

No review on New York City scones would be complete without the monster offering from the Levain Bakery.  A thin but crispy exterior layer and a super buttery smooth interior.  When hot, these scones are hard to beat in the more traditional category.  Notes: Monster size means you won’t need more food for hours.  Pair it with one of their world famous cookies and you could feed the entire Army Core of Engineers.  More Levain.

Honorable mention goes to the Street Sweets Truck oat currant scone.  Very textured, flavorful and extremely fresh, this is a perfect morning scone to go with your coffee.  Cake-like although not particularly scone-like in texture, you couldn’tt eat it as a stand alone dessert.  One to try if you can figure out where the truck is parked.  Try Midtown Lunch to see where their spot is.

Believe it or not there are still more baked goods to talk about from my multiple trips to Francois Chocolate Bar.   According to Wikipedia a financier is a small French cake, often mistaken for a pastry.  In this case,  it’s actually a light-ish teacake made with almond flour.  It tastes like an ultra-fancy brownie with a unique chocolate-almond flavor.  It isn’t too buttery or too sweet either.    I also noticed that it keeps well compared to other baked goods as it was still decent a day later.

Recommended: chocolate financier, a steal at $3.50

Francois chocolate bar is located at 714 Madison Avenue on the 4th floor of Mauboussin.