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DB Bistro Moderne Pastry Chef Ashley Brauze with a Terrarium style dessert #1 concord grape sorbet, sliced grapes, cotton candy
I was on a bike ride a few weeks ago when another rider in the pack, who I am Facebook friends with, said “who made those desserts you posted the other day–you know, the ones that look like miniature terrariums with all kinds of stuff going on inside with all the colors, and was that cotton candy on top? Those were really cool–what restaurant was that from? (more…)
Ashley Brauze from DB Bistro Moderne - Plum Delice: Ricotta Mousse, cornmeal poundcake, plum gelee, candied corn
Ashley Brauze from DB Bistro Moderne made one of my favorite desserts from the 2011 New York Food and Wine “Sweet” event. She said her plum-based dessert was meant to compliment all the chocolate desserts expected to be on hand. It was a thoughtful strategy that worked because I found her “Plum Delice” (Ricotta Mousse, cornmeal poundcake, plum gelee and candied corn) to be exceptionally light and flavorful–the candied corn was a great touch as well. Video after the jump… (more…)
Friday night was the New York Food & Wine Festival “Sweet” event. A rare opportunity to try some of the best desserts from New York’s top pastry chefs–all in one place. This is part 2 of our report (Part 1 with fan favorite Doughnut Plant and Johnny Iuzzini is here). (more…)
New York Food and Wine Festival - Sweet Event on September 29th, sponsored by Godiva
I can’t believe how many Dessert Buzz favorites are attending the “Sweet” event at the New York Food and Wine Festival (Tonight!). It will be a truly awesome event this for any attendee, so grab your tickets asap since this event will sell out. EVENT IS SOLD OUT! Pastry chefs attending the event who have been featured on DessertBuzz include Francois Payard (interview) of Francois Chocolate Bar, Gustav Tzoc (interview) of Abe and Arthur’s, Andrea Jarosh of Donatella, Michelle Park of Kyotofu, Karen DeMasco of Locanda Verde, Catrine Oscarson of Mas, Ludovic Augendre and Florian Bellange of Mad Mac, Johnny Iuzzini of Jean Georges, Alison Kave of First Prize Pies and Ron Ben-Israel Cakes, Details below.
Andrea Jarosh's Sfogliatella dessert from Donatella
Karen DeMasco Mini Rhubarb Pie
Mad-Mac's Macarons
What can I say DessertBuzz is a softball site. In 3 years I have never done a takedown-style review. I have never slammed an obnoxious server. Usually, if I really dislike a dessert, I just don’t write the review, which is a disservice to my readers. I really should adopt (read: steal) Zach’s Midtown Lunch system of the “the plus and minus” which, at the end of the review, summarizes what someone who would like the reviewed establishment would say (the +) and what someone who dislikes the establishment would say (the -).
In the case of DB Bistro Moderne I had a great 4-star main course, the wait staff was super pro and friendly but the dessert, while aesthetically pleasing, was just not that good. Dammit! Why didn’t I go with the chocolate moelleux?
First, a few words about the Coq Au Vin with Hen of the Woods mushrooms, bacon and spaetzle. This was about as close the perfect meal I have had in recent memory. Sadly no pictures. I am not going to go into why it was so good since this is DessertBuzz, but lets just say if you like Coq Au vin, get it here. I will say that my plate was so bare that when the waiter came for it that he joked “I will show this to the chef, the customer didn’t really like the dish, ha, ha” I told him that if it weren’t for the other patrons in the room, I would have licked the plate completely clean.
The dessert I stupidly chose over the Moelleux Au Chocolate was the Apple tart tatin with caramel apple mousse and mascarpone ice cream. The mousse and ice cream components were both excellent. The mousse had with a subtle apple flavor and very little sweetness and the mascarpone ice cream was also delicious. Plus, my companion liked the thin apple slices that the ice cream was served on. The main focus of this dessert, the apple tart, was where it fell apart. The apple tart had an uneven firmness. It wasn’t tender and I didn’t know if it was intended to be soft throughout or what. It seemed like it could have been served hot but it wasn’t. It was hard to cut and the cookie underneath shattered when I cut into the apple.
That’s what I get for breaking my own rules about ordering plated desserts. When in doubt, order the most involved chocolate dessert available, it’s usually the best since most people who order dessert gravitate to chocolate.
DB Bistro Moderne’s website is here.