When I asked Junoon’s Pastry Chef, who started in September 2010, whether she had to get approval from Executive Chef Vikas Khanna to add a new dessert to the menu, she responded blithely “not really, he trusts me”. This anecdote speaks to the way Jenny Lee approaches her desserts at the one-Michelin-starred Junoon. She seems to start with a mostly blank canvas and adds whatever elements she thinks will work to make the dish special. The quince tart tatin is a perfect example. This dish is really tart. I mean, punch-you-in-the-jaw tart. She could have easily just sweetened it up to taste like a Del Monte fruit cocktail and I’m sure some customers would have been fine with that. Instead, the tart quince flavor was allowed to shine though. The subtly flavored fennel ice cream takes a bit of the edge off to complete the dish. (more…)











