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Breaking: Angela Pinkerton to leave Eleven Madison Park

Posted by Niko on September 5th, 2014

Chef Angela Pinkerton departs Eleven Madison Park… from Chef Daniel Humm:

“ It’s bittersweet to bid Angela farewell. She is part of the fabric of Eleven Madison Park and has played an integral part in the success of the restaurant. I’ve watched Angela excel for the past eight years, rising from a pastry line cook to our executive pastry chef and to becoming the best pastry chef in America. Her ability to mentor her team, consistently pushing them to improve and evolve, has continually been something I’ve been in awe of. She’s been beyond dedicated to our restaurant and our goal, and has been a fixture in our kitchen. We will all really miss her presence on a professional and personal level.

As she explores opportunities in the San Francisco Bay area, I am certain that she will flourish in whatever role she takes. We wish her the absolute best and she’ll always be a part of our family.

Over the next couple of months we will be taking steps to fill the position from within and as always are looking toward the future with great optimism.”

A Popcorn Sundae and Creamsicle Pie at North End Grill

Posted by Niko on April 24th, 2014

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[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

[This article first appeared in Serious Eats NY] Despite the glamourous modern interior and seemingly intimidating open kitchen, North End Grill is a quite comfortable restaurant. That’s a theme extending from sleek, plush leather booths to a delicious but unfussy dessert menu from pastry chef Tracy Obolsky.

Two of my favorite desserts—on a menu packed with many superb offerings—both feature whimsical takes on childhood favorites. The Popcorn Sundae ($9) is the very embodiment of a fun elevated comfort food dessert. Your first clue? The tall sundae glass it’s served in.

The sundae is packed with the flavor and aroma of popcorn, from the popcorn-flavored ice cream to the chunks of financier made with popcorn flour. Salted butterscotch sauce is drizzled down the sides and some black pepper whipped cream tops it all off.

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The chunks of popcorn financiers softening in the ice cream is a winning combination, like a brownie sundae transformed entirely into popcorn. And salted butterscotch plus crunchy candied popcorn is reminiscent of an old candy shop’s buttercrunch. This is what a great elevated comfort dessert looks like: something that works on an immediate level, then delights even more as you think about it.

Obolsky’s Creamsicle Pie ($9) with vanilla whipped cream and candied orange is another take on a childhood favorite, but like the sundae, it’s no simple popsicle.

Things start out similar to a good key lime pie with a crumbly, buttery graham cracker crust, but there’s a sweeter vanilla Bavarian cream in lieu of the standard lime curd. To balance all that sweetness, Obolsky adds a generous layer of bitter marmalade just above the crust. Get the two components in one bite and boom, you have creamsicle.

A thin layer of orange gelée and some candied orange slices add a citrus dimension and some pretty aesthetics. Despite all the layers, some vanilla flavored whipped cream reminds you that this is still a proper pie.

Ice cream and pie lovers: engage.

About the author: Native New Yorker Niko Triantafillou is the founder of DessertBuzz.com his photographs of desserts and pastry chefs have appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Washington Post and Dessert Professional Magazine. He is an unabashed foodie nerdling. Follow him on Twitter at @DessertBuzz.

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[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

[This article originally appeared in Serious Eats NY] The challenge of evaluating chocolate chip cookies is that even mediocre ones tastes damn good when served hot from the oven. With decent chocolate and plenty of butter, it’s hard to go wrong.

That’s why my benchmark for fresh chocolate chip cookies is high. What did the chef do differently or better? This brings me to Dominique Ansel Bakery’s new Chocolate Chip Cookie Milk Shot ($3), which debuted in Austin at SXSW and has already seen several cycles of media coverage, but is only available in New York starting today. The design is deceptively simple: cookie dough shaped into a shot glass, then filled with milk to be eaten on the spot. (more…)

Dessert at Jean Georges: Citrus Four (Delicious) Ways

Posted by Niko on April 23rd, 2014

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[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

[This article originally appeared on Serious Eats NY] The prix-fixe lunch at the three-Michelin-starred Jean Georges offers one of the best fine dining values in New York, but their fantastic pastry program has always been the draw for me, so I try to visit at least once a year.

You can pick between three or four different themes, one of which is Citrus ($15 a la carte) featuring an array of unique and rare seasonal fruit. The Citrus includes four desserts served on one (giant) plate, but the four could easily stand alone as individual courses. But the all-together format is how Jean Georges has done it for years, and perhaps more importantly, it’s what their regulars have come to expect. (more…)

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[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

[This article originally appeared in Serious Eats NY] Despite today’s obsession with over-the-top, deep fried, caramel coated, whiskey soaked indulgences, not all chefs are on board. Leading the charge on the high end is Rouge Tomate. Though the restaurant employs its own nutritionist, it’s not a health food restaurant. Nor is it 100% vegetarian, organic or gluten free—though much of their menu matches those descriptions. It’s really in its own category. (more…)

Where’s all the content?

Posted by Niko on January 1st, 2014
Niko's reviews on Serious Eats New York blog

Click here to see my latest reviews on Serious Eats NY

Since April, 2013 I have been writing the dessert column (“Sugar Rush”) for Serious Eats NY.  I usually write three dessert reviews a week and also cover special dessert features like the best rugelach in New York.  I always post my latest reviews on Twitter.  Follow Dessertbuzz here.

Where’s all our content?

Posted by Niko on July 10th, 2013

Make sure you visit Serious Eats New York for my latest dessert reviews

If you’re looking for all our content please check out Serious Eats New York where we publish three NYC dessert reviews every week.  Or follow us on Twitter where we tweet links to all our content.