Dessertbuzz | Four Seasons Restaurant: Four-star desserts and a beautiful space since 1959


Four Seasons Restaurant: Four-star desserts and a beautiful space since 1959

22 May 2011, Posted by Niko in Best fancy pants restaurant desserts, Best of New York City, Four Seasons

Chocolate souffle from The Four Seasons Restaurant NYC

When I first found out I was going to lunch at the Four Seasons, I was pretty excited but soon realized that despite growing up in New York City, I really knew nothing about this storied institution except that it has very special chain mail window shades.

According to Wikipedia, The Four Seasons which opened in 1959,  is credited with introducing the idea of seasonally-changing menus to the US and was the first destination restaurant to print its menus in English. It was also the first US restaurant (outside of California) to serve American wine.

The best desserts in New York City 2011

Caramelized Key Lime Pie with Chocolate cookie crust

That’s all cool, but what I wanted to know is–do they have a commitment to excellent desserts?  A quick check on their pastry chef put that concern to rest.  Executive Pastry Chef Chris Broberg, has quite a resume including Best Pastry Chef in America in 1999 and 2000 from Pastry Art & Design Magazine.

After a superb savory meal I made an error in judgement with my party by overselling the virtues of souffles.  Why was this a mistake?  Well, it resulted in four of my six dining companions ordering the souffle, (the other two ordered the key lime pie) meaning I would only be able to taste two* desserts!   You would think I would know better.

Chocolate Souffle from The Four Seasons

Thankfully, two people ordered the cookies and cream souffle instead of the chocolate, adding a little diversity to the mix.  Also at the end of the service the Four Seasons serves all their tables a giant pink cloud of cotton candy with delicious house-made banana ice cream underneath.  It’s not very practical to eat but it is very memorable.

Cotton Candy in a fancy restaurant?  Yes, the Four Seasons

Cotton Candy with banana ice cream from the Four Seasons

The Caramelized Key Lime Pie with chocolate cookie crust was as delicious and refined a dessert as you are going to taste anywhere.  It was very tart and low in sweetness.  The powerful, tart lime flavor reminded me of Karen DiMasco’s off-the-hook lemon tart from Locanda Verde.  The crust added a great bit of texture.  It wasn’t just the usual super-sweet, super-buttery  cookie-crumb crust.   Instead, the crust actually tasted like chocolate cookie.

Chocolate souffle from the Four Seasons Restaurant in NYC

The souffles came to the table piping hot and the waiters poured molten chocolate sauce into them.  The body of the souffle wasn’t very dark but the poured chocolate was.  Like the Key Lime pie, the souffles were’t too sweet.  The cookies and cream souffle was slightly sweeter and tasted surprising different from the chocolate.  It made me think of the inside of an Oreo.  The best barometer of the quality of the souffle was the long silence that decended on our table when everyone was devouring them.

My only regret was not being able to try more of Chef Broberg’s menu.  Some of our other options included: elderflower and strawberry napoleon with citrus gelee, rhubarb and vanilla tapioca parfait and a mustard seed roasted pineapple with macadamia ice cream.  See the entire dessert menu here.

The Four Seasons is located on 99 East 52 Street in the Seagram Building.

For more recent reviews of high-end desserts from “fancy-pants” restaurants  see below:

Le Bernardin (Michael Lasikonis)

Greek yogurt panna cotta

Daniel (Dominque Ansel)

Warm guanaja chocolate coulant liquid caramel, fleur de Sel, milk sorbet

Dovetail (Michal Shelkowitz)

Quattro (Antonio Bachour)

Kiwi and a piece of Rhubarb before the soup got poured

  • Antonio Bachour

    Wow Great Niko!!!

  • Ashley R.

    Wow, that souffle looks amazing. I have to add this place on my list. And Key Lime Pie is one of my favorite desserts. Great Posts!

  • Niko

    Ashley, If you really like Key Lime pie you should really get over there to try this interpretation of it – I bet you could order it at the bar if you didn’t want to drop $200 a head on dinner/lunch!

  • dessertbuzz » Blog Archive » Chambre De Sucre gourmet sugar coming soon to a fine restaurant near you

    […] pieces are quite beautiful and I could definitely see these sugars along side a cup of coffee at The Four Seasons or Bouley. Specialty sugar cubes – in the "French Sugar" […]

  • kathy

    Chef Broberg … simply the Best!! Bravo!

  • Chris Williams

    In the late ’70s The Four Seasons served a Cappuccino Soufflé that impressed me so much that I sought out the recipe—no mean feat in a time of no Internet search engines. The problem was compounded by the fact that I lived in Texas at the time. I managed to find one in fairly short order, most likely in the New York Times. The soufflé was one of the more challenging things I’d ever made, but with care and precision I fairly duplicated it.

    The cheesecake I enjoyed there was a bit more problematic. The blueberries that accompanied it were as large as marbles, and blueberries of any size were impossible to find in the South at that time.

    Today the original site of The Four Seasons is being auctioned off, and with it comes a certain melancholy. Not everywhere can be found such an exquisite space to feel completely at home in.

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