Everyone has to go sometime, you might as well be killed by dessert. Francisco Migoya's eclair
On Monday night DessertBuzz attended “Killed by Dessert”. Six of the country’s top pastry chefs came together to create and serve their “favorite things” in a special meal to benefit Share Our Strength
. The evening was a unqualified success. There was something really special about the contrast of the casual dining environment of an industrial kitchen and the fastidiousness of top-level chefs and their teams working as if they were feeding the president.
Bill Corbett, Executive Pastry Chef of The Absinthe Group explained the thinking behind the concept.
Killed by Dessert is the result of a conversation on Twitter between Lincoln Carson, Michael Laiskonis, Francisco Migoya and myself. We were discussing Lincoln’s top 5 favorite things (that he tweeted) at the time and thought about how we should write menus like that (of our favorite things). At the same time I was discussing a possible event idea with Brooks Headley and Christina Tosi because I was planning a trip to the east coast. The conversations kind of morphed into the idea of an event together and Killed by Dessert was born. We wanted to do an event that was exciting for us and totally our concept, so we pooled our respective resources and figured out how we could make it happen. It’s at Milk Bar’s kitchen because Christina has the luxury of a lot of space and was generous enough to host the event. Everyone has chipped in and used connections and skills to pull this thing together. It’s a true collaboration of chefs who just want to do something together, have a good time and share it with some people who enjoy dessert.
Michael Laiskonis, former Executive Pastry Chef of Le Bernardin has published the Killed by Dessert “manifesto” the public declaration of principles and intention that guided the event on his personal blog here.
I would describe the atmosphere among the attendees, who all paid $125 for the event, as “giddy”. The crowd was a mix of journalists–mostly wearing their civilian hats; foodies–some, who drove in from as far away as Washington D.C.; and more than a few professional chefs.
The setting was very social–it’s only natural to bond with your neighbors over a five-hour, 13 course meal with wine pairings. But even before saying a word to my table-mates I knew for certain we all had one thing in common–we all wanted to be Killed by dessert.
The courses: Passed Canapes (click on images to view larger size)
In addition to the twelve sweet courses there were seven savory courses–six offered at the beginning of the evening as passed canapés. Later, another savory dish was offered as an “intermezzo” between the first and seconds sets of plated desserts.
Oasis at Three O’Clock in the Morning”
Falafel, Pine Nut Hummus, Flat Bread
Bill Corbett
“Brupper”
English Muffin, Black Pepper Butter, Caramelized Onions, Soft Poached Egg, Pea Shoots
Christina Tosi
“Wish That I Had Been Born Into It”
Latkes, Smoked Salmon, Caviar and Rose Champagne
Lincoln Carson
“Time”
Dashi-Braised Short Rib, Bone Marrow
Michael Laiskonis
Mole Negro de Oaxaca
Duck and Corn Tortillas
Francisco Migoya
The main courses: 12 dessert plates with a savory intermezzo course in
“Just Plain Vanilla”
Supported by Mandarin, Buddha’s Hand, Coriander
Lincoln Carson
Delamotte Rose Champagne
Butterscotch Semifreddo, Tony Style
Brooks Headley
Delamotte Rose Champagne
“Words”
Tarte Tropezienne a la Façon Thorne
Michael Laiskonis
Delamotte Rose Champagne
Napoleon Trimmings
Caramelized Puff Pastry Shards, Just-Made Mousseline Cream
Francisco Migoya
Rosa Regale, Brachetto
“Cornflake Cookie Dough Should Make Up 91% of Everyone’s Daily Intake, Not Just Mine”
Fresh Cookie Dough, Cookie Puree, Warm Cookie, Cereal milk
Christina Tosi
Domaine Weinbach, Gewürztraminer, Cuvee Theo 2009
“My Family’s Lack of a Culinary Legacy” aka“The Only Thing My Mom Ever Taught Me How to Make”
Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwich
Bill Corbett
Kracher Beerenauslese, 2008
“I was Too Picky of a Kid to Ever Understand PB&J”
Crock Pot Cake, Warm Pickled Strawberry Jam, Peanut Butter Halvah, Sweet Cream
Christina Tosi
Kracher Beerenauslese, 2008
INTERMEZZO
Spagetti with Piennolo Del Vesuvio tomatoes
(no they didn’t run out of bowls–everyone was served in a take out container)
Brooks Headley
“Peaks and Valleys”
Milk Chocolate, Tarragon, Hazelnut
Bill Corbett
Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny Port
Melanzane E Cioccolato, Tableside
Brooks Headley
Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny Port
Coffee Éclair
Francisco Migoya
Knob Creek Bourbon and Coffee Ice Cube
“The Beginning of the End, aka The Old Fashioned”
Orange, Toffee, Smoked Vanilla, Praline, Bourbon
Lincoln Carson
Knob Creek Bourbon and Coffee Ice Cube
“Ritual”
Caramel Coffee Parfait
Michael Laiskonis
Lamill Coffee
Anyone who doubts that these chefs were indeed trying to kill us needs to look no further than the goody bag. After 19 thoughtful and involved courses of food with wine pairings you could forgive the organizers for not providing a goody bag. I am certain that not even the most hard-core dessert lover (say someone who runs a dessert blog) was thinking about a few macarons or chocolates to seal the evening. But this group of chefs, abiding by this line in the Manifesto “We are pastry chefs. It is up to us to leave a pleasant last impression” wouldn’t think of stiffing guests of a special take-away. My guess is they feel it’s the customer’s right to leave with something when dining at this level.
Goody Bag:
Chocolate-rum cannele, Palet d’Or
Goat cheese and acacia honey macaron, Butternut squash butter macaron, Candied ginger-gold apple and caramelized white chocolate confection
Lamill Coffee Not pictured: Pecan praline chocolate bar, Black currant jelly Bill Corbett, Executive Pastry Chef of The Absinthe Group
Brooks Headley, Executive Pastry Chef of Del Posto Restaurant
Christina Tosi, Pastry Chef/Owner of Momofuku Milk Bar
Francisco Migoya, Associate Professor of The Culinary Institute of America
Lincoln Carson, Corporate Pastry Chef of The Mina Group
Michael Laiskonis, former Executive Pastry Chef of Le Bernardin
Net proceeds from the dinner will benefit Share Our Strength.
Follow DessertBuzz on Twitter here. Michael Laiskonis’s last desserts from Le Bernardin were recently featured on Dessertbuzz. Francisco Migoya has been featured on DessertBuzz many times-go here to read more.
Wow, what a dessert line up!
Left by FN on January 18th, 2012